One of the more challenging classical seafood dishes  I know of requires fabricating a whole fish in to perfectly even darnes, trussing the darnes and then gently poaching in a Court Bouillon.
While the darnes are still quite hot, the pin bones need to be pulled (they are on a diagonal), the butcher twine needs to be cut away, the skin needs to be peeled and the seafood must be plated without breaking... and served piping hot with Sauce Hollandaise & boiled, tourneed potatoes.  I repeatedly practiced this dish for the CMC exam with a whole salmon... quite the challenge!

Darne of Salmon   

Fabricating seafood is a tremendous amount of work, requiring experience, proper technique, patience & the correct tools. One of my responsibilites at my first professional cooking jobs was 'fish butcher'. I loved it and remember the fins, bones, gills etc... constantly pricking my fingers when I fabricated a large variety of seafood. Cuts from fish are no fun, they get infected and take a very long time to heal!

These days I wear thick gloves for protection & use strong shears, tweezers, boning knives and a small cleaver to make the job more manageable.

I believe most consumers refer to the thick, cross cut (skin on and with bones) of whole fish as a steak. Chefs call this cut a darne! I rarely see darnes of seafood at national grocery stores but often see this cut at Asian markets.

 There is a small portion of the back bone in the cut which holds he fish together nicely but trussing with butcher's twine is the best way to hold the darne together.


I like to poach the darnes although it's perfectly delicious sautéed or grilled.


These pictures are taken at an outdoor food market in Malaysia. There are many different types of seafood of all shapes and sizes-freshly caught daily.

 

Poached Darne of Salmon

Prep Time: 10 min

Cooking Time: 20 min

Yield: 4 portions


Ingredients                                          

4 ea.            Seafood 'steaks'/darnes (salmon, striped bass, cod)

4 Cups       Water

1 Cup           Vinegar (red wine/cider)     

1 Cup           Mirepoix, sliced thin                

1  Tbsp        Kosher Salt                                       

12 ea            Black peppercorns

1 ea              Lemon, sliced thinly

3 ea.            Green onions, sliced thinly 

3 Tbsp       Bay leaves



How to Prepare Poached Darne of Salmon

Step 1

Have your seafood butcher fabricate the seafood carefully to eliminate all scales, grills, fins and blood.

Also request the portions are all the same in size, weight and appearance. Since fish have much different thickness at the tail end than in the middle, the portions may be dramatically different. (and will cook differently).



Step 2 Preparing Court Bouillon

Place the water, mirepoix, lemon slices, vinegar, bay leaves, herbs, seasonings into the pan you will poach the fish in and bring to a boil; simmer for 5 minutes. You can strain if you like.







Place the darnes into the hot court bouillon, making certain the darnes are fully submerged. Allow the fish to poach gently for about 10 minutes at 165 ° F, until the darnes reach an internal temperature of 145° F. Do not boil!







Step 3 

Place the cooked darnes on to a plate, cut the strings off-discard. Carefully trim the skin, blood line and bones from the darnes. You may choose to return the salmon in to the hot court bouillon for a minute or so to reheat after trimming-be careful and use a perforated spatula to avoid breaking the fish.




By Tom Griffiths December 17, 2025
Butter, spices, and traditional family recipes bring us together in the simplest—and most meaningful—ways. This is a cookie my mother baked at Easter time. The lemon sugar crust is delicious... perfect with coffee or tea.
By Tom Griffiths December 17, 2025
Butter, spices, and traditional family recipes bring us together in the simplest—and most meaningful—ways. Christmas cookies are more than nostalgic treats; they’re a celebration of childhood memories, and maybe cookies help to make us all a little more patient, thoughtful & friendly each holiday season. I remember driving with my father to the city each Christmas to pick up Aunt Flora. She would send us out with decorative plates of homemade, Italian Christmas cookies to deliver to the local relatives. It was always snowing-we would spend a few minutes visiting each family, have a few cookies and a glass of sweet wine or coffee. My mother and aunts began baking cookies the day after Thanksgiving. They filled the freezer with shoe boxes of cookies lined with wax paper for protection... frozen cookies are pretty delicious!
By Tom Griffiths December 15, 2025
Years ago I traveled to Santa Fe and Alburque with my son Ciro. We enjoyed fantastic Southwest cuisine at local shops and cafes. A highlight was purchasing fresh pine nuts in the shell- a little challenging to get the nuts out of the shells but the flavor was fantastic.
By Tom Griffiths December 15, 2025
I taught garde manger for years at the CIA... it was one of my favorite classes. I love caviar, foie gras, preparing hors d' oeuvres, decorative platters and especially forcemeats. And yes... I love making watermelon carvings too!
By Tom Griffiths December 8, 2025
I was amazed to learn of a French Tomato sauce (Sauce Tomat) as a young, CIA students many years ago. It's very different than the Italian sauce my mother made each week for Sunday dinner. I enjoy purchasing cases of inexpensive, local tomatoes in late summer called 'seconds'. These tomatoes are generally ripe, bruised tomatoes which I wash, chop and freeze to invite a taste of summer in my kitchen during the cold, winter months.
By Tom Griffiths December 3, 2025
Choosing Garlic: For the best flavor, select firm, heavy heads with tight skins. Hardneck garlic varieties (such as Music or German Red) offer more complexity and a cleaner heat than most supermarket softneck varieties. Preventing Bitterness: Garlic burns quickly. Add minced garlic to warm—not scorching—fat, and cook just until fragrant. Overcooking turns it harsh and metallic. Balancing Butter & Olive Oil: A blend of butter for richness and extra-virgin olive oil for aroma delivers a more nuanced flavor and prevents the butter from over-browning under the broiler. their color and freshness.
By Tom Griffiths December 3, 2025
There is a large variety of Pears available to cook with. I remember peeling and poaching tiny, Seckel pears for garde manger presentations-challenging! Pears, like apples vary widely in texture, flavor, and culinary performance, making selection an important step in recipe development. Bartlett are juicy and great to eat ripe or for purees and sauces. Bosc are a little more dense and good for cooking. Red and green Anjou are more versatile and can be eaten fresh in salads as well as cooked in baked goods or savory dishes.
By Tom Griffiths December 2, 2025
Butter, spices, and traditional family recipes bring us together in the simplest—and most meaningful—ways. Christmas cookies are more than nostalgic treats; they’re a celebration of childhood memories, and maybe cookies help to make us all a little more patient, thoughtful & friendly each holiday season. I remember driving with my father to the city each Christmas to pick up Aunt Flora. She would send us out with decorative plates of homemade, Italian Christmas cookies to deliver to the local relatives. It was always snowing-we would spend a few minutes visiting each family, have a few cookies and a glass of sweet wine or coffee. My mother and aunts began baking cookies the day after Thanksgiving. They filled the freezer with shoe boxes of cookies lined with wax paper for protection... frozen cookies are pretty delicious!
By Tom Griffiths December 2, 2025
With just a few delicious ingredients and a little attention, you can turn an everyday sandwich into something crisp, gooey, and deeply satisfying... delicious. Try topping the melted cheese sandwich with fresh basil or sun-dried tomato or prosciutto as you take it from the oven-amazing.
By Tom Griffiths December 1, 2025
Chefs aspiring to become CIA Instructors are often tested on a variety of egg dishes. Omelettes and poached eggs are a little tricky unless you are using your own pan and have practiced and practiced and practiced! Scrambled eggs are more civilized; Escoffier writes about scrambling eggs with a clove of garlic stuck on the end of a paring knife-I do this sometimes for the amazing flavor... Try flavoring scrambled eggs with shredded cheese, shaved truffles, smoked ham, veggies or herbs, scrambled eggs with buttered toast is the perfect comfort food.